Long-Distance Dining

“It’s not even food, if I understand the meaning of the word.”

CHICAGO UNION STATION, Ill. -- That’s how Anthony Hopkins’ Hanibal Lechter sardonically described the state of airline food in “Hannibal,” the 2001 sequel to “The Silence of the Lambs.” And while the culinary opinions of a fictional cannibal might be just a bit harsh a commentary on how people eat while traveling these days, there is no doubt the quality and intention of meals onboard many vehicles has transitioned substantially from the days of china and fine linens aboard a Pan Am jetliner, where food service wasn’t justified as a money-making enterprise, but rather a way to attract passengers. And, to be fair, the microwaved cheeseburgers and soggy Danish available on most Amtrak regional and corridor trains is not what most diners would consider haute cuisine.

However, one holdover from the nostalgic days of onboard dining are the dining cars still found on the long-distance trains of Amtrak and VIA Rail in Canada. On trains longer than 3 or 4 hours, a full-service dining car is included in the train consist. Here you’ll find sit-down, multiple course offering with wait staff, made-to-order options, adult beverages, and desserts. Adding to the restaurant-on-wheels atmosphere are the reserved table times arranged just after the train departs from its originating terminal.

The motif harks back to the days when dining aboard passenger trains – such as the famous 20^th Century Limited of the New York Central or the Royal Blue of the Baltimore & Ohio – offered access to some of the best fare and service in the nation. Executive chef positions for the various railroads were among the most sought-after roles for top cooks and their menus were as exciting and diverse as the regions through which they traveled. The Baltimore & Ohio was known for its extensive use of Cheasapeake Bay oysters, while fresh citrus from California was featured on well-regarded California Zephyr of several railroads, including the Denver & Rio Grande. Moreover, these chefs were among the first adopters of local produce and ingredients – having access to fresh supplies at station stops along the line – a concept that didn’t become prevalent in stationary dining until much later. (For an excellent perspective on Dining on the B&O by Thomas Greco and Karl Spence, please read Christine Pomorski’s review in RAIL #23.)

Certainly, there is no confusing today’s long-distance dining experience with the halcyon days of railroading; meals now are less lavish and more standardized. A New York strip steak might represent the featured entrée and the butter comes from wrapped packets rather than whipped-up on a plate. But when considering that cooking on a rocking railcar might be among the most challenging platforms in which to prepare food – not to mention the wait staff who deliver it – a fresh-cooked meal can turn a long and winding train trip into a enjoyable way to spend some time.

There’s one last aspect of long-distance train dining that must not go unmentioned. Because the challenge of fixing place settings aboard a moving railcar is daunting, dining car staff seat patrons together to maximize table efficiency. This means that often diners will share a meal with fellow travelers they’ve never met. I find this to be the most rewarding part of long-distance train travel – to share a meal and some conversation with complete strangers. You quickly learn to discuss what you have in common and in an increasingly divided age, it’s a rare opportunity to come together in a respectful and civilized setting. 

Last night, I had the pleasure of dining with Will and Carol of Clinton, Iowa. Will works for a caramel coloring plant and Carol is a teacher. They were visiting friends in New Jersey and returning home to Iowa aboard the Capitol Limited and then Chicago's Metra commuter rail service to Aurora, Ill., before driving the remainder of the trip. We had a great conversation over Will's New York strip, Carol's salmon filet and my 1/4 chicken, before we all couldn't resist the peanut butter-chocolate pie. A good time was had by all.